a straw with brilliant and golden reflections, of a frankness and intensity that command respect from the first glance. The matter is already perceptible in the glass, a serious, almost consistent viscosity, which betrays the density and depth of what awaits. Les Clos announces itself as the lord it is. Clean, frank, of total and immediate openness. The terroir speaks without preamble: warm stone, chalk, iodine, this Kimmeridgian signature in all its purity and intensity. The evocation of shellfish is strikingly clear, marine and mineral at the same time, carried by a deep salinity that anchors the wine in its soil with absolute conviction. It is intense, rich, warm, the stone of Chablis at its highest and noblest expression. A nose of a grand lord, without concession or artifice. The wine imposes itself from the attack, the frank and very dense texture settles, round, suave, of a remarkable consistency that fills the palate with authority. The winemaking is perfectly executed: precise, perfectly mastered, it allows the terroir to express itself unhindered while offering it the framework it deserves. The aromas unfold with increasing complexity, this candied lemon brings an evolved and luminous depth, the white flowers of spring add an unexpected and enchanting floral delicacy. Then comes this sublime association between the limestone of ancient seas with chalk, iodine, shellfish and the honeyed character of ripeness and evolution: two registers that coexist, dialogue, and mutually sublimate each other. It is simply great art. The 2020 vintage, with its affirmed ripeness and solar generosity, imposes its evolution here without ever making the wine falter. Les Clos bears this weight with admirable serenity and rectitude, the structure is intact, the tension preserved, the minerality always sovereign. The aromatic persistence is immense, long, complex, oscillating between warm chalk, candied lemon and delicate honey. This wine is only just beginning to open up, to reveal its true nature, and what it promises for the years to come is truly dizzying. Les Clos 2020 by Christian Moreau is Chablis at its highest dimension: mineral and generous, taut and suave, precise and deep. A very great wine of beautiful craftsmanship, which grows with time without ever losing its soul. Thank you, Moreau family — and thank you, Les Clos.